flaky za’atar flatbreads
aka scallion pancakes, made Middle Eastern!
Have you ever consumed something so delicious that you think about it at least once per week? That was me with the breakfast wrap from Win Son Bakery, a Taiwanese bakery in Greenpoint, Brooklyn that uses a scallion pancake as the wrap in its breakfast sandwiches. Last week, I had a particularly hard craving, and although I live approximately 8.7 miles away from Win Son Bakery, congestion pricing and a closed Path station meant I needed to get creative.
And creative I got: forgetting to buy scallions at the grocery store, I decided to swap the scallion filling for a za’atar and sesame filling, in true I-must-make-everything-Middle-Eastern fashion. The result was incredible — earthy, nutty za’atar in between flaky layers of fried dough, that paired perfectly with tangy, creamy labneh. YUM!
I made six pancakes (or flatbreads, whatever you want to call it), which meant I could eat two fresh, give two to my parents, and leave two for leftover breakfast wraps in the following days. And that’s called good foresight.
but, what is za’atar?
Za’atar is a Middle Eastern herb, often referred as “wild thyme.” More commonly, za’atar is spice blend that includes za’atar (confusing right?), but also sesame seeds and sumac, a crushed berry that has a citrusy vibe to it. The herb grows across the Levantine region of the Middle East. The flavor profile of the spice mix is earthy, nutty, savory, and goes well on anything savory, really. Top it on chicken, eggs, or roasted veggies. Bonus points if you make my grandma’s special za’atar recipe.
If you want to try it for yourself, here are my favorite blends:
Z&Z za’atar, which is savory & tangy (I wrote an entire Bon Appetit piece on them)
Lebanese za’atar from Edy’s Grocer
Villa Jerada za’atar with a touch of olive oil infused in the blend
prep time: 1 hour | cook time: 30 minutes
makes: 6 flatbreads
INGREDIENTS
for the dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup boiling water
1/4-1/2 cup cold water
for the filling:
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tbsp. za’atar
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
for cooking:
3/4 cup neutral oil
DIRECTIONS
If using a stand-mixer to knead the dough: in the bowl of a stand mixer using the dough hook attachment, combine the flour and salt from the dough ingredients, and mix on low speed. While the mixer is on low, slowly drizzle in the boiling water. Next, drizzle in the cold water, starting with 1/4 cup, mixing until a shaggy dough forms. If there are still dry spots in the dough, add the additional 1/4 cup cold water. Increase the mixer speed to medium until a smooth dough ball forms, about 3 minutes. (if the ball doesn’t appear totally smooth, that’s ok, but feel free to knead it for a minute or so by hand).
If kneading the dough by hand: in a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt from the dough ingredients with a fork. Slowly pour in the boiling water, whisking with the fork as you pour. Next, drizzle in the cold water, starting with 1/4 cup, mixing until a shaggy dough forms — if the flour is cool to touch, use your hands. If there are still dry spots in the dough, add the additional 1/4 cup cold water. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and knead until a smooth dough ball forms, about 5 minutes.
Once the dough is ready, shape it into a ball, and cover it with plastic wrap. Let it rest for 30-45 minutes — this helps the gluten strands of the dough relax, making it easier to work with when we form our flatbreads.
While the dough is resting, make the filling: heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes. Combine the za’atar and sesame seeds in a heat-safe bowl, then pour the hot oil over the spices; they will sizzle, allowing the sesame seeds to lightly toast and the za’atar to bloom in the oil. Add in the salt and flour and mix until a smooth, runny paste forms. Set aside.
After the dough has rested, cut it into six equal pieces and form each piece into a small ball — cover the balls with plastic wrap to prevent them from drying out. Working one ball at a time, roll each into a thin rectangle, about 1/8” thick. Spread 2 tbsp. of filling evenly over the entire rectangle. Roll the dough tightly, from the long edge, creating a thin tube, then roll one edge of the tube inwards, like a snail. Use a little bit of the filling to seal the loose end. Repeat for the remaining dough balls, covering each prepared dough to prevent them from drying out as you work.
Heat 2 tbsp. worth of oil in a medium-sized nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Roll out one prepared dough ball in a flat circle, about 1/4” thick and 7-8” in diameter — don’t worry if some of the filling spills out! Gently drop each flatbread into the skillet, careful of the hot oil, and cover, cooking for 2 minutes. Remove cover and flip flatbread, cooking on each side for about 1 minute, flipping until each side is golden brown. Place flatbread on a paper towel-lined plate to absorb any excess oil. Repeat process until you cook each prepared dough ball.
Enjoy flatbread while warm and crispy. I love to dip it in labneh, or top it with jammy eggs and avocado. Flatbreads can be stored in an airtight bag or container in the fridge for up to 3 days and reheated on a dry, nonstick skillet.
